Are All Propane Grills Convertible To Natural Gas? | Gas Swap

No, many propane grills can’t be converted; a safe switch needs a model-specific kit and a grill rated for natural gas.

A patio gas line sounds like freedom: no tank runs, no last-minute refills, no half-cooked burgers while you hunt a spare cylinder. Still, propane and natural gas are not interchangeable. A grill that runs well on one fuel can run poorly or unsafely on the other unless it’s built to be converted and you use the right parts.

Below you’ll learn what “convertible” means in practice, how to check your exact model, what a real kit changes, and the warning signs that tell you to stop.

Why Propane And Natural Gas Aren’t Plug-And-Play

Propane is stored as a liquid under pressure in a cylinder, then turns to gas as it leaves the tank. Natural gas arrives as a low-pressure gas through a home line. That pressure and energy difference changes how much fuel must flow through the valves to make a clean flame.

The biggest mechanical difference is at the orifice, the tiny opening that meters fuel into each burner. Propane orifices are usually smaller. Natural gas orifices are usually larger. A fuel swap without the right orifices often leads to weak heat, sooty flames, or flare behavior that feels “off.”

Hoses, quick-connect fittings, and regulators can also differ. Some grills have regulators built into the valve/manifold assembly, so you can’t treat the job like a simple hose swap.

Are All Propane Grills Convertible To Natural Gas? In Real Life

Convertible usually means the manufacturer sells a natural gas conversion kit for your exact model number (often tied to a year or serial range), and the grill’s labeling or manual lists a natural gas configuration. If there’s no factory kit and the manual blocks conversion, assume it’s not meant to be converted.

Many brands sell two versions of the same-looking grill: an LP model and an NG model. They may share the same hood and cart, yet the manifold, valves, regulator setup, and burner jets can differ. That’s why “they look the same” is not proof of compatibility.

How To Confirm Your Grill Can Be Converted

Start with the two sources that matter most: the rating plate and the owner’s manual. The rating plate is often inside the cart or on the back panel. It lists fuel type, inlet pressure, and the grill’s input rating. The manual should list approved parts and any installer requirements.

What To Look For In The Manual

• A named natural gas kit with a part number that matches your model.
• Notes about which burners are covered (main, side, rear/rotisserie).
• Any requirement for a licensed installer.
• Warnings about warranty limits after conversion.

Fast “Stop” Signals

• No factory kit for your exact model number.
• Manual text that says “do not convert” or “LP only.”
• Discontinued model with no kit availability and no verified parts list.
• Third-party “universal” kit is the only option you can find.

What A Proper Conversion Kit Usually Changes

A real kit is more than a hose. It changes how fuel is metered and how the grill connects to the supply. Exact contents vary by brand, yet most approved kits include items from this list.

Orifices For Every Burner

Each burner needs the correct natural gas orifice. If your grill has a side burner or rear burner, it often has its own jet. Missing one means one burner is still metered for propane.

Hose And Quick-Connect Hardware

Natural gas kits commonly include a hose rated for NG service and a quick disconnect. Many also include fittings designed to mate cleanly to the grill’s manifold without improvised adapter stacks.

Regulator Or Manifold Parts (Sometimes)

Some grills need a new regulator or a revised manifold/valve setup. If a kit includes these parts, that’s a clue the brand views conversion as more than an orifice swap.

Updated Fuel Labeling

Kits often include a new label or sticker that marks the grill as natural gas. It helps later users avoid hooking it to a propane tank by mistake.

Compatibility Checklist Before You Spend Money

Use this quick grid to keep your decision grounded in the stuff that actually predicts a safe conversion.

Check Item	What It Tells You	Where To Verify
Factory NG kit listed for your model	The brand approves a defined conversion path	Owner’s manual, official parts lookup
Kit covers all burners on your grill	No burner is left metered for propane	Kit contents list, parts diagram
Rating plate lists NG specs or kit approval	Fuel/pressure expectations are documented	Data plate on grill body or cart
Hose route is short and protected	Lower trip and heat exposure risk	Patio layout check
Outdoor shutoff valve is present and reachable	You can stop gas flow quickly	Valve near the stub-out
Correct quick-connect type in the kit	Connection is designed for NG service	Kit specs, fitting labels
Local rules allow DIY work on the hookup	You know if a licensed installer is required	Local building department guidance
Grill condition is solid (burners, firebox)	Money goes into years of use, not a dying grill	Visual inspection

Safety Notes For A Fixed Natural Gas Line

Natural gas keeps flowing until the shutoff is closed, so leak checks matter every time you connect or move the grill. A soap-and-water bubble test on each joint is a simple way to spot leaks before ignition.

NFPA’s grilling safety facts and resources cover spacing from buildings, safe lighting habits, and general fire prevention steps that apply to both fuels.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission also shares a short checklist worth reading before the first cookout: gas grill safety tips.

House-side work is the point where rules vary the most. Some places treat new gas piping, shutoff placement, and quick-connect installs as permitted work. If you don’t already have a ready-to-use outlet, check local requirements before buying a kit.

Cost, Convenience, And When To Skip Conversion

A kit can cost anywhere from “reasonable accessory” to “almost a new grill,” depending on what parts it replaces and how the brand prices it. Labor can also be a factor if the kit calls for a licensed installer or your gas outlet needs work.

Conversion makes the most sense when your grill is in good shape, parts are still sold for it, and the brand sells a kit for your exact model. If the grill is rusted, burners are worn, or the brand blocks conversion, buying a factory natural gas model is usually the calmer move.

A High-Level View Of The Conversion Process

Follow your kit instructions line by line. This overview is here so you know what you’re signing up for and what “good” looks like at each stage.

Verify Model Match And Gather Tools

Confirm the kit part number matches your model and burner set. Clear a well-lit workspace, take a few photos of the manifold area, and keep small parts in a tray so nothing rolls away.

Shut Off Propane And Open The Grill

Close the tank valve and disconnect the regulator. Let the grill cool. Pull grates and heat shields so you can reach the burner fasteners without forcing them.

Swap Orifices And Any Supplied Manifold Parts

Install the kit orifices (and any manifold/regulator parts) exactly as shown. Make sure each burner tube seats fully over its orifice when you reinstall burners.

Connect The Natural Gas Hose

Attach the supplied hose and quick disconnect. Avoid mixing in extra adapters unless the kit calls for them. Fewer joints means fewer leak points.

Leak Test, Then Light With The Lid Open

Open the house shutoff and do a bubble test on every joint. If bubbles grow, close the shutoff and fix the joint before trying again. When the test stays clear, light with the lid open and check flame shape on low and high. A steady blue flame with small yellow tips is a good sign.

Common Post-Conversion Problems And What They Point To

If something feels wrong after the swap, don’t “cook through it.” Use the symptom list below, then refer back to your kit steps.

Symptom	Likely Cause	What To Do
Weak heat on high	Wrong orifice size or fuel restriction	Re-check kit match, then inspect hose routing for kinks
Big yellow flames and soot	Fuel/air mix off	Confirm orifices, then set burner air shutters if your model has them
Flames lift off the burner ports	Pressure mismatch or air mix issue	Verify hose/regulator setup matches the kit spec
Gas smell near the cart	Loose joint or damaged hose	Close shutoff, bubble test again, replace any suspect hose
Side burner acts odd, main burners fine	Side burner orifice not swapped	Confirm the kit includes that burner’s parts and install them
Ignition struggles after reassembly	Burner not seated on the orifice	Re-seat burners so they slide cleanly onto the valve jets
Flare-ups feel worse than before	Grease buildup, not fuel type	Clean grates, shields, and drip tray, then retest

Closing Takeaway

Not all propane grills are convertible to natural gas, and that’s by design. If you have a factory kit that matches your model and a safe gas outlet, conversion can work well. If you’re missing that kit approval, don’t force it. A factory natural gas grill is built, labeled, and warrantied for a fixed line from day one.